Trends S/S 2013
In a season where modernity and elegance go hand in hand, the men’s wardrobe wins. So from Santa Eulalia we’d like to show trends rewarding those who adopt them.
The main innovation both on the catwalk and in the store is the renamed Saint Laurent signature that led by Hedi Slimane does not only keep the essence of its creator but also acquires a touch of glam, rock and trendiness so characteristic of the designer who marked an era of the male silhouette, making black, denim and slim the uniform of an entire generation.
As if fresh out of opium den the Etro models walk down the catwalk. Elegant suits where the fall of the fabric, with silk as the protagonist, brings unusual movement that Kean Etro tops with a turban creating one of his best collections.
Valentino makes camouflage his trademark both through the print and the colours. Thanks to Valentino’s sartorial tradition, the new rounded silhouette and the introduction of new fabrics makes it one of the more modern collections. Their sneakers will be one of the musts of the season, just like the ones from Lanvin which in its more casual line offers a colourful summer with shirts, polo shirts and jackets with metallic touches marking a relaxed fit without losing the French chic essence.
Umberto and Carol conquer us again with a collection full of colour, overlapping and microprints. Kenzo adopts a new military air from a fun point of view including, of course, their new fetish symbol the tiger. Who does not dream of a Kenzo hoodie? I do.
Following the military trend we enter the marine. The commitment to white and navy in parkas and jackets from Moncler Gamme Bleu, the trendiest line of the legendary Italian brand, and the imagination of its never indifferent designer Thom Browne make the collection and catwalk - this time preceded by a 'New York, New York' choerography- one of the mandatory visits during the fashion week. While maintaining overlapping layers Thom Browne’s collection is very different when he designs his own collection. Prints and colours straight out of a 21st century painter's palette, the graphic designer’s. Plaids, stripes and animals are mixed together and surprisingly add up. He takes risks and leaves no one indifferent, something that not many dare to do these days.
More nods to art and specifically painting are found in Jil Sander and the 'Mondrian' prints in garments such as the twin-set,-certainly one of the most interesting of the catwalk- which combines perfectly with the minimal but edgy personality. A combination of which these designers are masters.
If what you want is basic garments, Acne is your brand. Well aware of its denim origins, a great part of the collection is made in this fabric and inspired by American work wear.
Acne is a name that is gaining its own identity and becoming one of the essential brands just like Maison Martin Margiela has done by redefining the classics with a unique and original style making a trench coat more than a regular trench coat. They call it 'Replicas' and apply the concept of the renewed classic basic wardrobe that any man needs.
In the sartorial scope Tom Ford is still king. His vision of masculinity neglects the classics and creates new classics. A slimmer silhouette with thin lapels and full of accessories is what the contemporary dandy should wear. Pure luxury for any occasion. Meanwhile, Neil Barret sees a summer full of blue and sand colours. Like a wave he takes the sea to the city with his suits and pinstriped versions for a less tight fit where volumes play a major role. But we know that for a good suit you need a good shirt like the ones from Salvatore Piccolo, ideal for any occasion.
When it comes to leather there are few like Bottega Veneta with its characteristic braided leather used in almost all of their accessories, bags, briefcases and shoes. Don’t forget that the accessories complete your look. Style is not contradictory to a casual and relaxed look, but it is the cut and quality of the fabric that makes the difference.
Continuing with accessories, the shoes are the man’s best ally. It’s the detail that changes everything, from the classicism of Tod's with their 'gominos' in infinite colours for an informal look to their elegant and durable Italian shoes. This 'made in Italy' brand is a safe buy.
Church's have managed to evolve into a more modern aesthetic without losing its roots and Christian Louboutin, whose red soles made us care more about the colour of the sole than the actual shoe, revolutionized the carpet in the same colour.
Berta Álvarez